Surfing

Aloha, this will be an ongoing blog around the building of a new Koa Surfboard. (scroll to bottom to see the process:)

Here we are 3 month after the Koa was picked out to the finish Surfboard :)

Amazing wood, wow, I love Koa!!!

10’3″ Curly Maui Koa Hot Curl Surfboard

This pix shows both sides of the same board :)

This one sold recently at the Native Intelligence Gallery in Wailuku.

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Update: June 22, 2011

The board has been blessed with salt water!

So much fun – we will do it again!!!

 

So much fun – we will do it again!!!

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Update: June 15, 2011

This quote inspired me to make my 1st wood board.

I have an inner struggle with how “perfect” to make um, then I remember these words and stop when it feels good!

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Update: June 13, 2011

Rough shaping done…

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June 2011

 

<<<<  This one sold recently at the Native Intelligence Gallery in Wailuku.

 

This meant a new one was in order.

Finding Koa the size and quality for a 10 foot surfboard is not easy or inexpensive.

A couple years ago I helped cut some massive slabs at our local mill on Maui.

So, I went to see if they were ready for use. ( It takes year or two for the wood to air dry after milling.)

Sure enough it was ready to go and after searching through a  few slabs, I found the one that would produce the board I wanted.

Roughly 11 feet by 24 inches of shimmering curly Koa from high on the  side of  Haleakala, east of the park.

Back at home, I hand planed the rough cut sides to reveal the amazing grain and shimmering curl.

A  Hot Curl template was selected and rough fitted to the piece of wood.

It will yielded a 10’+, by 19″  wide, around 2″ thick!

More to come….

 

 

 

Francisco Porcella

Francisco Porcella

Well, after all these years of taking pictures of Peahi (Jaws), I finally got out on the water to shoot from a jet ski. It’s not that I haven’t had the opportunity, I just hadn’t taken any of them for many reasons, like not have a working water housing, not wanting to miss getting land shots, not healthy enough, on and on… So what changed? I got healthy, had a friend do it without a housing, and had a persistent driver who would not take no for an answer. 

Yep, my FaceBook friend Loren Eib messaged me over and over saying he wanted to get me out on the water!

Maliko Gulch Moonset

Maliko Gulch Moonset

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Sunrise set Maliko

   In January we had a solid week of XXL size swells coming’ I picked the second swell, smallest of the week, to give it a go. Loren was excited, maybe more than I was, and kept saying, “can’t wait to see what you get out there.” No pressure :)

So we met for the first time IRL at Maliko Gulch to launch the jet ski. We hit it off right away as we loaded up our stuff and hooked the trailer to my 4×4 truck. Loren got on the ski and I backed him into the water, and off he went. After parking the truck, I waded out to the ski and out the channel we went! 20′ face waves lined the channel as we left the rivermouth, game on! Now I’m excited…

The short ride up the coast was beautiful, the ocean had a calm glassy surface with big surf crashing on the rocky shoreline. Loren gave me some emergency instructions, something like this… “If I get knocked off… it could happen,  here’s the extra kill switch key, stick it in here, start here and  go…  got it?” As we approached Peahi bay I could see boats and skis and the lineup was already full of surfers. Loren took us straight into the mix to have a look. I was in awe of how close to the surf everyone was, as we saw our first wave, 20’+ up close and personal! Now I am very excited!

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Up close and personal!

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Zak Noyle showin’ how it’s done. (note: real housing)

We moved a little way into the channel as I unstrapped the Pelican case, opened it and pulled out my camera. I had prepared my Canon 70d with a 100-300L in a dry bag setup to keep the spray off. As we went back into the lineup, I could see many of my favorite pro photographers, ALL with real water housings… But I forgot all that when the first real set came through, 30’+ glassy, light offshore and hollow! Now, I’m frothing excited!

     For the next few hours we buzzed in and out of the lineup, constantly moving, dodging rouge west peaks and shooting some of the best tube riding and surfing in Peahi history. I felt right at home, I love riding big waves and it made me wish I was 30 again :)

THANK you! Loren, for being such a great driver and getting me out there.

Mahalo to all the surfers who put on quite a show!

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Billy Kemper in a monster barrel!

The gallery below is some 688 images from the shoot in chronological order.

E-mail me for prints and rates.

 

 Ahhh, and the day ended with this :)

God is Good!

God is Good!

 
 

 

One of my friends sent me a link to a photo blog project , to post your best 10 picture from 2012.

OK, Yeah, sounded like fun, so I looked for my favorite 10.

This was more difficult than I thought, as 2012 was a very good year for photos on Maui.

With the help of my Facebook family, I was able to narrow it down to 25 or so.

In the end the final choices were for the impact and interactions these images represent.

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We are blessed. This is the view from my deck in Pukalani Maui.

On any give day you will find my wife and I enjoying the sunset at the end of the day.

God has been good to us and we enjoy sharing it with others. #Offthedeck

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This image was hands down the most popular photo this year.

Taken at the summit of Haleakala crater Maui.

Here is a blog post about it.

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I spent some time this year documenting the sugar cane burns.

While this is a controversial subject, it is a fascinating study.

The cattle egrets flock by the hundreds to eat the bug and rodents as they flee the fire.

 Click here to see a time lapse of one of the burns.

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This image is a collaboration with Maui artist and friend Tim Garcia.

Tim had the idea of shooting his hulas dancers with the Blue Moon this year.

3am in the morning and  it all came alive!

Thanks Tim for the inspiration!

Click here to see a FB gallery of the Hula Circle Blessing at the Maui Winery.

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2012 was an amazing year for celestial activities, stars, planets, meteors and eclipses lighting up the skies.

The Transits of Venus  was the rarest of these celestial phenomena, the last one in our lifetime, as the next one is in 2117!

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Maui is the home of one of the biggest waves on the planet. Peahi (Jaws) only breaks a few times a year.

This image is of  Dave Wassel on 1-4-12, this wave won him the Monster Paddle award for 2012.

This photo was the one chosen to represent his amazing ride, very honored.

Mahalo Billabong!

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This photo of the Puunene Sugar Mill was inspired one of Maui’s finest photographers, Randy J Braun.

This year has been an amazing  journey of meeting and working with so many amazing photographers,

through social media meetups, online and in person.

Thanks to the Maui Camera Club for providing encouragement and opportunities.

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This was the first year of travel for me after a couple of  major surgeries.

This service trip to Nicaragua was amazing (God is so gracious).

The Miskito people of the Rio Coco river are amazing, thank you!

The skies were alive with volcanoes, amazing sunsets and lightning storms!

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The vistas on Maui are awesome, inspiring and dangerous.

I almost drove off the road looking at this one, finally had to pull over to shoot this panorama.

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This image is a 10 shot panorama taken from the top of Haleakala at sunset, on one our many photographer meetups.

I’m always amazed at how 20+ people can be taking pictures at the same time and yet get such an awesome variety of images!

Thank You for looking :)

Mike

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OK, this one #11 and  is from 2011, but came back up again in 2012 for another popular round of exposure.

It is my most popular shot ever, with tens of thousands of  views,

and  thouthands of “likes” and comments and continues to be one of my best sellers.

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OK, yeah… I gotta put this one too :)

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The heavens declare the glory of God; the skies proclaim the work of his hands.

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Comment to Facebook or Twitter :)

With each new swell at Peahi the bar is raised, new heroes are made and reputations are solidified!

Here it is only October and the bar has been set really high!

For two days Peahi dished up some of the biggest, cleanest waves the world has ever seen.

Where do we go from here?

I can’t wait to see!

Click on any picture to go to the gallery of the day :)

Day one – 10-9-12                   Day two – 10-10-12

Albee Layer 10-9-12

Mark Healey 10-10-12

 

Please Tweet, Post or Pin Comments!

This is the acadamy awards for big wave surfing.

Each year the best rides, by the best riders, in the biggest waves on the planet

are judged and celebrated at the Grove  in Anaheim.

(Click Here to see the amazing rides and event.)

Each year the best photographers and videographers submit their best takes,

hoping to be the one to have captured the defining moments of the big wave world.

I have had the privilege of participating for several years,

by submitting my images of Maui’s premeire big wave, Peahi (Jaws)!

Over the years, I have had many images selected to showcase the amazing surfers who come each year..

Last year I had 3 in the finals and decide to attend the Awards night in LA.

I had an amazing time hanging with friends, seeing old friends

and celebrating with the best surfers and photographers in the world,

but did not win the prize. (Click Here to see a video sideshow of last year.)

This year, I was unable to attend due to being unable to be in two places at once :)

 I only had one image in the finals, with very stiff competition.

To win this prize there are 5 surfers in each of 5 categories, with multiple photographer for each.

Your surfer has to win the category first, then they pick one winning photograph.

This year I was honored by having my shot of Dave Wassel selected for the paddle in wave of the year!

Thanks you to all the surfers who Changed the Game this year!

Truly amazing!  Stoke to have witnessed it.

Click here to see more shots of this ride and the others this day!

A BIG Mahalo to  Billabong & Pelican Cases for a great event and products!

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The LORD on high is mightier than the noise of many waters,

yea, than the mighty waves of the sea.

Psalm 93:4

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With each new swell at Peahi the bar is raised, new heroes are made and reputations are solidified!

These two days had far less crowds, with many amazing rides and wipeouts!

There was a mix of  Paddle-in, Tow-in, Windsurfing, Kite surfing, Stand up boarding, all sharing the lineup pretty well :)

Click on any picture to go to the gallery of the day :)

1-30-12 Gallery **** 1-31-12 Gallery

Jeffery Rowley charging into one of the best ridden waves of the day!     1-30-12 Gallery

The windsurfers were on it, catching some of the biggest waves of the day!

End of the day saw tow surfers charging…

Go to the full  1-30-12 Gallery to see Kite boarders and Tow surfers too!

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Joao Marco Maffini Charging on 1-31-12

Robby Naish on a smoker, stand-up surfing!   Go to the full 1-31-12 gallery to see more!

1-30-12 Gallery **** 1-31-12 Gallery

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Training days at Peahi are smaller days producing waves in the 15-25 foot face range.

There are allot of new faces and these days see some learning faster than others.

Click here, or on any picture to go to the full galleries.

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2-9-12

Albee Layer setting the standard…

Most of the surfers are paddling from the shore.

This means climbing down a cliff and doing the rock dance.

Nakoa DeCoite and Francisco Porcella split a peak.

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2-16-12

Party wave!

Heloy “Jr. Boy”  On the wave of the day! Showing he wants it!

Full Galleries

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For  the Sunrise / Sunset friends, here one :)

Follow me on Facebook for regular post of Maui’s finest!

Comment to Facebook or Twitter :)

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5am and the bouy has been reading around 16 feet 17 seconds all night. finally after a slow start, Peahi (Jaws) is on!
It is raining and the road is very muddy and the surfers are standing in the dark, listening to the sound of huge surf.
20-30 foot Hawaiian reveals itself as we climb down the slippery cliff to the rocks below.
     These images represent the crazy abandonment of the 30+ paddle-in surfers who took on these massive waves.
The rain cleared but the wind remained, as a historic surfing session filled the day. Another level have been broken!

Enjoy a few shots here and click on any picture to go the the full gallery!

Dave Wassel’s XXL contender!

 Tyler Larronde was one of the young guns charging!

Shane Dorian was a standout as usual,

taking off some of the biggest waves of the day and pulling into barrels like this!

The lefts were macking as well! Rider: Kohl Christensen

Click HERE to see the full gallery!

Comment to Facebook or Twitter :)

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Every year on Maui we enjoy gaint surf at Peahi / Jaws.

This year started rather slow with only one small day in November and December. (12-8-11 Gallery)

2012 started of with a bang, with a huge swell hitting 1-4-12. I will post about that later.

On the 8th it broke again, smaller, but very clean and with a  smaller local crowd.

Enjoy a few shots here and click on any picture to go the the full gallery!

Maui girl Paige Alms was charging on her 1st paddle day at Peahi.

Francisco Porcella scooped this nice left.

Matt Meola pulled into the tube on this one!

 Nakoa DeCoite was a standout with this airdrop!

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And the day ended with another beautiful Maui Sunset!

For the Full Gallery Click Here!

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  • For a week now I have been waiting for the first “high surf warning” storm of the winter.
  • 11:00pm – The weather buoy read, 15 feet 16 seconds, when I went to bed. Big enough to make me go to sleep with dreams of past days at one of the biggest waves on earth.
  • 4:00am – I am awake, roosters aren’t even crowing yet, but I know sleep is futile. The buoy has been solid at 13-15 feet, promising 30+ foot face wave, and the wind is light.
  • 5:30am – I’m on the road, still dark with just a hint of sunrise. As I approach the coast the sunrise is exploding on the horizon.

I round the corner to overlook Peahi bay, solid lines of swell march up the coastline – Game on!

6:30am – Beautiful 30+ foot waves are crashing on the reef, no surfers are in the line-up yet, so I set up my camera and wait.

For the next few hours, 6-7 teams came and challenged the waves at Peahi on opening day.

The next generation teen surfers were on it this day. What are these kids going to do when they grow up??  :)

(Point to a surfer to see who it is.)

Click Here to see full album.